Around the World in 90 Days Issue # 2
"Don't be scared to walk alone. Don't be scared to like it" John Mayer
Day 3 of my trip. I had booked via the internet a 1st class sleeper to travel to Dodoma that night to see my World Vision Sponsor daughter. I checked out of the Peacock but left most of my luggage in their safe secure hands until my return. With my small backpack and my gifts for Paulina, I walked to the train station. To me, it looked like a market day with everyone juggling with food, and any valuable items they could carry, mainly on their heads, and the whole family including dogs were there to see the traveller off on their journey. As I walked along the platform to try and find my carriage, I was quietly thinking ‘I hope 1st class is better than these carriages.’ They appeared to be out of 20’s in a state of disrepair and very grotty. Unfortunately, 1st Class was the same! When Mickey helped me on board his final words were ‘Keep your door locked and your bags with you always’. In my excitement, tiredness, and surprised state this did not really register properly until later.
Here I was moving forward – crossing off one of my list items – meeting my World Vision Sponsor daughter in person. The next stop was Dodoma – so I thought!
But the transport Gods once again had other plans and just at dusk the rattling, bone-shaking, smoky old train came to a screeching stop! The brake screeching was scary enough let alone not knowing why or where we were. Prior to this unscheduled, unexplained stop, I had been absorbing a real perspective on the local communities. Most locals appeared to use whatever they could find to provide shelter – crates, boxes, tin. They also seemed to try and grow vegetables anywhere they could - provided there was a well or water pump close by. No piped water here!
I became quite philosophical and thought about Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs – I recognized that Westerners get too hung up on their wants, whereas these people had very simple needs and appeared much happier than most of us! This happiness was expressed openly as the train passed by – I felt like I was on board the Pied Piper of trains – as they flocked, followed, waved and expressed a great sense of excitement as the train passed by. I started waving with my best impression of the royal wave, as that was how I felt!
Another grandmother was on board, she was a local who spoke some English. That was a relief. Her travelling companions, her grandchildren, saw me as a source of entertainment – a white, non-Swahili-speaking lady, travelling alone. They spoke no English, but we had some giggles, and I was overjoyed by the wide-eyed, white teeth smiles and innocent interactions with me. It was a good distraction and filled my potential loneliness void with fun company.
The sun was starting to fade, and I now understood fully Mickey’s advice – the guard arrived with linen and wooden props. The props were to be put into the window frames to keep the windows locked. Apparently, if left open I may have to share my sleeper with the company of some energetic local. As the train slows through sidings at nighttime, the poor locals take the opportunity of an open window to jump on board for a free ride. How creative they are in looking for opportunities to meet their needs when money is very limited!?
After my experience with the guard, I really kept Mickey’s advice at the top of my mind—time for my first toilet visit. So, loaded up with all my gear, I negotiated my way to the toilet, as the trained jerked and swayed along. Upon opening the toilet door, surprise, surprise the toilet was a hole in the floor and there were no handrails or anything for you to hold onto! How do you squat, keep your balance with all your gear, your trousers down but the bottoms rolled up? Timing was imperative to be successful, as this was not a smooth train ride. Every time the train stopped or started – it was more like someone learning to drive, who still hadn’t mastered the gear, clutch, and acceleration process. Knowing that when I got back to the Peacock I could have my pants laundered was reassuring against any toilet mishaps!
Another sleepless night, I’m sure the train stopped a thousand times – but daylight arrived, and I searched the horizon for some sign or something with a name on it, so I could work out where I was!? There, white and pristine like a Hollywood mansion nestled in the foothills, I saw a beautiful building. It was more like a mirage in comparison to the surroundings. Previously my vista was just red dusty barren plains with limited, if any vegetation. Who is the owner and what is its purpose way out here?
Once again anyone who spoke English had no idea where we were or how far Dodoma was. The train slowed down and I looked out to find a sign (signs are a rarity in Tanzania) it said Dodoma – so I grabbed my bags and jumped off. Starting to get used to these quick landings and take-offs. Now I just had to find someone from World Vision. Knowing that the train had been delayed considerably by that unscheduled stop. Later, I found out the reason for it was…. the rail tracks had been removed! Apparently, when no trains are travelling through, the locals see the opportunity and rip up the iron tracks and sell them for scrap metal - a good source of ready cash! Luckily, it was spotted in time and was able to be fixed. Wow, in Australia we complain about graffiti and trains running late, not tracks disappearing overnight!
I found my clearly marked World Vision van and we were off to see my Sponsor daughter, Paulina, at her school. I was to meet her in person. We had only communicated via letter, translated by World Vision Staff. My heart fluttered in anticipation. The road was rough, long, and dusty but my mission was getting closer and closer, and my excitement was growing by each minute. We arrived at her School at lunchtime. I was made to feel like royalty. Paulina gave me a warm spontaneous hug and her classmates sang to me with angelic voices, it was heart-wrenching! I had no idea what the words meant, but they sounded very harmonious and in tune, nearly professional-like! Paulina’s teacher joined us on the trip to meet her family. They lived in a mud brick, thatched roof one-room home. This home in size was about the size of an average bedroom back in Australia. They had no running water or power. I had brought some presents for Paulina – a pink school backpack, pencils, netball and pump as well as a skipping rope. She was so excited with all of them. We pumped up the netball and got to play with it and the skipping rope. She is very athletic and manly in build. I found out later that this was because she walked 7 kilometres to and from school every day including Saturdays.
As well as the manual work she had as daily chores, including going to the well for all their water needs. Her teacher gave me her report card which indicated her English was not great, so we struck a deal for me to learn Swahili and for her to learn English so that we could write direct to each other in the future. As it came time to leave, due to time restrictions by World Vision, her parents offered me a live chicken.
Naturally, as this was my first stop on a three-month trip, I had to refuse. I felt so privileged and overwhelmed by their generosity (giving me the food off their table) so loved and humbled that my emotions spilled over and both Paulina and I shed some tears as we hugged goodbye. How could people with so little, with no running water or power – be so clean, healthy and generous?
Apparently, giving someone a live chicken is a sign of esteem and respect!
On my way back, I also found out that girls usually do not get an education and are married off very young. Lucky for Paulina my sponsorship was giving her this rare opportunity and she could not be married until her education was at least complete. On the bumpy return trip, I pondered on what else I could do for her. As she loved pink and she had that big trek every day, I decided a pink bike was both practical, fun, and appropriate. It would help with another athletic skill, cut down on travel time and consequently allow more time for study and household chores. Also, she already had a pump for the bike tyres from my previous gift. So, I left money with World Vision to purchase and provide her with this added surprise. Having shared my train experience with the World Vision staff, they suggested the bus is a better option than the train and a lot quicker also. So, I stayed overnight in the Doodma Hotel and booked a bus ticket for the next day. It was such a sense of relief that I could relax in a nice clean room, as it has been a long dusty emotional day!
On board the bus the day, a nun Sister Gemma befriended me and helped to explain things along the way. Bus trip toilet stops were much easier than the train, even though they were still just as primitive. (Hole in the ground). I wondered how Sister Gemma managed with her long robes and had a bit of chuckle as I imagined her squatting with her robes tossed over her head!
Negotiating these facilities with jeans then became less of a chore to me! Sister Gemma was returning to Dar Es Salaam after spending many months in an Aids Orphanage. There are many aids’ orphanages. The children are a combination of either contracted aids at birth or whose parents have died of aids, and they are consequently parentless. Sex education is just new to the education agenda, for those who are lucky enough to get an education.
Gratefulness and relief flooded over me when I checked back into the Peacock Hotel. I updated everyone via email on my adventures and wrote a letter to Paulina and my granddaughter Olivia. Olivia was only 4 years old, but I thought it very important for her to learn empathy and cultural diversity. I still had another day to explore Dars Es Salaam and Mickey, arrived unprompted at the Hotel the next morning and took me to the nearest Island. Even though without Mickey, I may not have gotten around or seen as much, I don’t believe his motives were totally genuine. He asked about my marital status, which I thought was a bit bizarre as I was old enough to be his mother at the very least! He asked me if I’d like to have a swim, but I had not packed any togs.
However, I did agree that I love being by the seaside. So, we went to the nearest spot Kenganbone Island. It was unspoilt with white, soft pristine sand and the crystal-clear blue waters of the Indian ocean lapping its shoreline. There was no dust, pollution, or rubbish here and the smell of the fresh salty air reminded me so much of the Australian beaches but different ocean. I had a paddle in the Indian Ocean! I felt the journey in getting on the barrage, is giving first-hand experience of the local practices. We boarded a barrage. I felt a bit like one of the livestock that were on board, herded in amongst the cars, buses, bikes, people, and assortment of live animals. Can cross that one off my list now as well! To top that off Mickey also negotiated a camel ride along the beach, for me.
Opportunities just seem to be presenting themselves to me! I am feeling euphoric and more confident every day.
Just like the little naked African boys frolicking in the water, I was so excited about having my first paddle in the Indian Ocean! As the sweet innocence of the two Naked African toddlers tugged at my heartstrings, through Mickey I sought permission to take a photo, but the eldest turned shy and went back and put his pants on – don’t underestimate the intelligence of children.
For the return trip to the mainland via the barrage, we caught the Dali Dali bus (the same size as a maxi taxi) but everyone crams in or hangs off the side! It appears that overloading is the norm, the only road rule is how, often, and loudly you can toot your horn and don’t worry about seat belts as there aren’t any?!
My last night in Tanzania the hotel was having a Tanzanian night in the dining room. All food, décor, music and dancing were local. I was sure they had just turned this on for me to say goodbye in style, so I joined in! The food was divine. It was all laid out on the table, in baskets, banana and cassava leaves and the smell of the mixture of local spices made me salivate and my tummy rumbled loudly in anticipation. There were so many choices – my favourites were Mtori (Beef and banana soup); Kisam Vu Cha Karanag (Cassava leaves with groundnuts); and Samaki Chuckuchuku (boiled lemon fish). The music had a very catchy beat, and the dancers may be considered by Australians as sexually provocative – lots of hips and bottom palpations. I celebrated my last night with these beautiful, sharing happy people, who made me feel welcome and at peace. I am not too sure if it was the glass of local wine but I certainly was emotional.
My first male encounter, who wanted to return to Australia with me.
I’m questioning is it Australia – the lucky country?
Is it a white female travelling alone, let’s see how gullible she is.
Or is it something in my psyche that portrays an aura that I need a partner in life?
I am so grateful that I had Mickey as my guide-interpreter and that I saw the sweet innocence of little African boys. I am so grateful I have managed to sponsor a child, that she is now getting a much-needed education and that I had some first-hand cultural experiences.