Travelling – Location, Location, Location

Fantasy – ‘existing only in the imagination’

Have you ever watched a movie and fantasised about being there or being part of it?

Let me entertain you.

It was 2020. A friend told me about the Exotic Marigold tour – so, without hesitation, I signed up.

I was off on my first trip to India, a land of spirituality, history and a population of 1.429 billion. Some cynics may scoff and say that many movies locations are fabricated on studio sets, but NOT this one. The locations in The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel are real, and I was about to visit them.

If you have not seen the film (which I find very hard to believe), here’s a quick synopsis: A group of British retirees ( played by Judi Dench, Maggie Smith and Bill Nighy) decide to spend their retirement in exotic and less expensive India. Lured by advertisements for the beautifully restored Marigold Hotel and imagining a life of leisure in lush surroundings, they arrive and find that the Marigold is a shell of its former self. Though their new home is not quite what they had imagined, the retirees find that life and love can begin again when they let go of their pasts.

As Evelyn says in the movie – “Can there be anywhere else in the world that is such an assault on the senses? Those who know the country of old just go about their business. But nothing can prepare the uninitiated for this riot of noise and colour. For the heat, the motion; the perpetual teeming crowds.”

Travelling from Australia to India required a visa, which I secured for 30 days. I arrived in India on 25 February and returned home on 5 March 2020. The journey took approximately 16 hours of flying time.

Since we were planning to travel off the beaten track, more vaccinations were required. I braved another armful of puncture marks and received vaccinations for Hepatitis B, Rabies, and Cholera.

It was Day 4 of this trip. Sitting at breakfast, overlooking the serene Lake Pichola, I could feel the excitement in the air. Our group buzzed with chatter—we all knew where we were going that day and, secretly, we all wanted to stay in the same room as Richard Gere (from The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel).

Yes, we were off to the Exotic Marigold Hotel in the small town of Khempur, approximately 190 km from New Delhi. In the movie, it appears to be in the middle of the bustling capital but that is the only illusion. The hotel does exist, and I was about to stay there.

Originally built in the 1620s, this 17th-century haveli is now a heritage hotel with 12 en-suite rooms. The owner, Hemant Singh, is a passionate horse enthusiast, and the property retains its equestrian charm.

In the heart of Rajasthan's golden sands, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel stands. It is a haven for souls seeking new starts in the land of ancient arts.

Ravla Khempur is a hidden gem, where time stands still and dreams ascend. It is a sanctuary of peace and grace in the vibrant tapestry of India's embrace.

With sun-kissed walls and fragrant blooms, these places dance with tales of old, laughter echoes through the halls, and love's true beauty unfolds.

In every corner, a story to tell, Of lives intertwined, and destinies swell, Where strangers become family, In these havens of serenity.

So come, dear traveller, and rest your weary feet In the warmth of these beloved retreats; let India's magic sweep you away In The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel's eternal sway.

With sun-kissed walls, ornate archways, and fragrant blooms, Ravla Khempur is a hidden gem where time slows down, and history comes alive. Every corner tells a story of royalty, romance, and resilience.

The hotel is also home to the Marwari horse, known for its strength, agility, and bravery in battle. These rare horses are famous for their distinctive inward-turning ears, a unique and beautiful feature. One of the highlights of my stay? Witnessing a two-day-old foal—a moment of pure magic.

Sorry about the poor quality of this but no flashes were allowed and it was getting dark!

We sipped chai in one of the wonderful window seat alcoves and then had henna painted on our hands. As I sat, I pondered how life may have been in the 1600s and who else may have sat here admiring the sand-coloured walls, archways, and beautiful surroundings.

Wait, there is more; we then dressed in our specifically colour-chosen sari and had our photo taken near the pool. (For the record, most Saris are about 8 metres long, and we needed local assistance to drape them around us appropriately).

The pool itself was added after filming the first movie in the series. The surrounding walls were covered in cascading ivy, making it seem more like a Bollywood movie set.

Before leaving, I had to get my photo taken in front of the famous hotel sign and laughed as I whispered to my fellow travellers: “Which criteria do I fit into - 'For the elderly & beautiful'?”

I had the henna on my hand, a sari wrapped around me, and I was in an exquisite old building with all the archways, alcoves, window seats, character, and history. What could top that?

That evening, we indulged in a delicious traditional Indian feast - curries, sweets, and exquisite hospitality. Even the cutlery and dining chairs featured equestrian designs, paying homage to the hotel’s heritage.

For those still awake after a long, adventure-filled day, there was only one way to end the night: watching The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel in the lounge. Remembering Evelyn’s words from the film, I stayed:

“Initially you're overwhelmed. But gradually, you realize it's like a wave. Resist, and you'll be knocked over. Dive into it, and you'll swim out the other side.”

The adventure wasn’t over yet! Next, we visited the Narain Niwas Palace, which served as the Viceroy Club in the film. Here, I leaned on the iconic bar, enjoyed high tea, and imagined myself as Judi Dench’s character—we do share similar first names, after all!

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Built in 1928, the palace was originally a royal retreat for General Amar Singh, Thakur of Kanota. Today, it’s managed by his descendants, maintaining the tradition of Rajput hospitality.

The palace also houses the Kanota Archives, showcasing artifacts from seven generations of history. I was particularly captivated by General Amar Singh’s personal diaries, which offer insights into colonial India, military life, and his progressive views on women.

Before leaving, I purchased one of the last copies of Reversing the Gaze, a book based on his diaries, signed by his descendants.

The Introduction to the book reads – "A Rajput ¹ who read will never ride a horse", says the well-known proverb. But ride he did and read he did and wrote voluminously for forty-four years. From September 3, 1897, in the waning days of the Victorian era, until his death on November 1, 1942, three years into World War II, Amar Singh kept his diary every day except one, the day his horse threw him and he lay unconscious. Daily writing became an integral part of his being a way to know and construct himself, an activity even more compelling than the demands of his several military careers or extended family.

Eighty-nine bound volumes, each about 800 pages, can be found at the Kanota, miles east of Jaipur on the Agra road, in the rooms Amar Singh called his library. Even by the generous standards of seventeenth—and eighteenth-century Europe, his is one of the longest continuous diaries ever written.

^1. A "Rajput" is a term referring to a group of warrior castes in India, historically known for their military prowess and royal lineage. The word itself translates to "son of a king" in Sanskrit, signifying their noble status as rulers and defenders of their territories; they are often associated with the region of Rajasthan in northern India.

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Exotic. Alluring. Colourful. Fascinating. Romantic. Extraordinary.

These words perfectly capture my experience. But in hindsight, I wonder - was it the movie, or was it the deep emotions this trip stirred in me?

Later that same year, I made a life-changing decision: I retired, quit my job, sold my home, and moved to the Sunshine Coast.

Do I have any regrets? Not a single one.

So, if you’re thinking about retirement, why not follow in the footsteps of the movie and history? Perhaps a visit to The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel is exactly what you need.

Or, as Sonny wisely said – “Everything will be all right in the end... if it's not all right, then it's not yet the end.”

If you want to know more about this tour or how you, too can step into the movie set, please message me. I'll pass on the details of the Australian travel company who conducted the tour with support from local operators.