Travelling – to the ‘Taj Mahal’ of the Kimberley
‘It’s like royalty.I’ve been to Buckingham Palace and the Vatican, but I haven’t experienced anything better than the immaculate presentation of Fossil Downs station homestead and grounds.’quotes Norm
This is a story of our forefathers – the MacDonald and the McKenzie family who jointly took a risk in March 1883 and travelled 5000 km over 3 years, with 670 cattle, 32 bullocks yoked to 2 wagons and 86 horses to settle at Fitzroy Crossing, in the Kimberley region of Western Australia.
The food list alone included - flour, baking soda, cream of tartar, tea, sugar, table salt, pepper, mustard, pickles, jam, and treacle. A large quantity of cooking fat. Fruit from home orchards dried and packed in calico bags, hard baked biscuits. Then there are all the cooking utensils, hammocks made out of corn sacks, a compass, sextant and tons of equipment to build a house when they arrived. This is not the entire list, but if they didn’t take it there was no shop or neighbours to supply anything you didn’t have.
[1]‘The Kimberley is Western Australia’s sparsely settled northern region. It’s known for large swaths of wilderness defined by natural wonders of rugged ranges, dramatic gorges, and semi-arid pindan plains.’ ‘Tales of these vast regions with enormous rivers and gorges, massive-sized remote properties and rugged roads intrigue even the most diffident of travellers.’ ‘Tourist companies have developed unique methods of transport and accommodation choices from swags, tents, and cabins, to flying into luxurious isolated resorts located on remote bays ‘.
‘As you meander through this sparsely populated area, your mind wanders to historical questions. Who began the first cattle station? How and when did they arrive? Why did they settle here? How do they sell their cattle? What sort of existence do they live? Do they just tough it out, or do services supply the needs of these remote pastoralists?
I’m lucky to interview the author of the book, ‘Fossil in the Flagstone’ who lived on this remote property.
The MacDonalds were also renowned for their firsts.
Some of their most notable firsts are :
First cattle station in Kimberley Western Australia
First to sow grass seed by air
First to fly live bulls to their destination – world record airlift in 1953
First to introduce air-conditioning to the homestead rooms in the Kimberley
Audio of my interview with Lyn - click and listen
‘Having lived and loved the Kimberley, its magnetism draws you back. The amazing rugged beauty casts a spell on you – geologists call it heaven, photographers call it paradise. Travellers gaze in awe and wonder as they discover yet another magnificent gorge, its colourful side displaying gold and amber, pink and purple, along with native waterlilies. They gaze in wonder at the unique horizontal waterfalls and the stunning coastal features of the Dampier Peninsula and Buccaneer Archipelago occurring as a consequence of the 35-foot tide. The spectacular sunsets are posted endlessly on social media.’
‘One hundred and thirty-three years of labour of love was invested into Fossil Downs by three generations of the MacDonald family – but all things (on earth) must eventually come to an End.’ They had endured a major flood in 1983, a 6.3 earthquake in 1999 and between 1980s and 1990s there were disastrous floods five times in seven years.
Not only did the MacDonald’s leave this enormous property behind they also practised ‘modus operandi’
Honesty – in all their dealings
Integrity –their word is their bond
Reliability – they deliver whatever the cost
Punctuality - they get through on time
Fidelity – they remember their friends
They had no problems with local aboriginal tribes and employed lots before The Pastoral Award was impacted.
The Aboriginals loved watching old John Wayne movies when available and screened by the station….were known for puffing out their chests and commenting ‘that they could ride as good as John Wayne’. The women kitchen hands were also very proud of the bread they produced daily from scratch.
Gina Rinehart, Mining tycoon and fellow West Australian purchased the whole property in 2015 and you are no longer able to visit the Taj Mahal of the Kimberley.
If you want to know more about this story of travellers who forged their way through unknown terrain and set up a property known as the Taj Mahal of the Kimberley quoted as ‘It’s like royalty. I’ve been to Buckingham Palace and the Vatican, but I haven’t experienced anything better than the immaculate presentation of Fossil Downs station homestead and grounds.’
Then click on the link below to get your own copy.
Barnes and Noble Fossil in the Flagstone
[1] The book ‘Fossil in the Flagstone’ Where the Unusual is Usual by Lyn Caverhill
Totally agree, Australia in all its glory - grit determination and resilience
What an incredible and long journey these early settlers had. Thanks for the peep into their lives.